![](https://ichef.bbci.co.uk/news/1024/branded_news/13C46/production/_124766908_gettyimages-1393470392.jpg)
Bennun added: “Harry’s House never drags, never wheedles. It has just the right amount of air in it. Its gentle tread puts not so much as a pinky toe wrong. If its predecessor, Fine Line, was a nicely confected cream puff, this is an artful soufflé.”